Saturday, November 9, 2013

An Orthodox Monastery in Bulgaria & a Sikh Temple in India

After watching the government protests (summer of 2013) in Sofia, Bulgaria, I decided to head for the hills for some peace and quiet.  

From Sofia, it was a few hours by bus to Rila, where I transferred to a smaller bus to take me up the mountains to an Orthodox Monastery in the middle of nowhere.


Once I arrived I went out for a hike, but 10 minutes into my hike the rain started the poor down. I retreated back to the sanctuary of the monks quarters, where I had been given a small, old, squeaky, saggy, wire framed bed, in a room for 3, which I had to myself. This was at first an appealing idea, but as the rain continued and the storm intensified, the structural integrity of the building was tested. Rain started to slowly leak through the ceiling. Then the drops got faster and faster and puddles started to form on the floor. The bed next to mine begin to become soaked through, and eventually drops started dripping out the bottom of the mattress. 


It was a long, damp, and hungry night.  Although I saw 2 monks carrying a sheep by its legs into the monastery and another with a heap of vegetables, I was not allowed to eat with these black cloaked, bearded men. I was stuck with only the water and loaf of bread that I had brought with me. 

As the sun rose, so did I.  The storm had passed and the monastery looked magnificent in the fog with mountains all around. I attended a service, which seemed like an endless string of kissing (pictures, the floor, books, etc.) and chanting. Hours later it ended, and I was free. I enjoyed the quiet, the sanctuary and the scenery for the remainder of my time there. 




Shorty after arriving in Delhi, India (my first time in the country), I decided that the noise, pollution, and busyness of the city was enough for me (especially since I was staying in the main bazar). I bought a train ticket for Amritsar, and 2 days later I was off. After 7 quick hours on a train, and a bicycle rickshaw ride later, I was standing at the gates of the Golden Temple. I quickly found the pilgrims quarters and was given a bed in a 3 person room. This time my room was full, as well as every other room, courtyard, stairwell, and ceiling.






The difference in noise, as compared to Rila was incredible. I was hoping that my tendency to be a light sleeper would quickly change. 

I ventured through and around the temple. Watched people kiss the ground and bow. Saw them bathe in the water that surrounded the temple, repeatedly and rhythmically dunking themselves. I also enjoyed the melodic chanting that could be heard throughout the whole establishment. The temple is said to be made with over 700kg of pure gold.


This time I was allowed to eat with the people at the temple. Food was provided to anyone and everyone who so desired, and so I sat on the floor, in a hall with hundreds of other people, and enjoyed a great meal. The system of preparing food, handing out plates and cups, serving food, and cleaning was one of the most well tuned operations that I have ever seen, and was completely by volunteer.



I stayed for two nights. During my time there I also bathed in the communal shower, which is a series of waist high fosets that spit out luke warm water. I bathed in my underwear, which everyone else did also. I also enjoyed walking around the temple at night; a pretty sight to behold.

2 comments:

  1. A fascinating culture and landscape!

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  2. I love that picture of you eating - it looks so locally authentic, without a hint of the tourist industry.

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